authentic arequipa

Authentic Arequipa
 
Authentic is generally a cut and dry type of word, if it's intended topic of discussion is not.  However, it's elongated brother, authenticity, in the world of traveling is hotly contested.  

Whether you are hiking the Andes, gorging on the provincial cuisines or riding buses with locals, we're all looking for that elusive unique and authentic experience.  The difference is between the experiences and what you find "authentic".  Plenty of those on our trail find sitting in a bar with gringos, speaking English and eating pizza and Italian food authetic enough. And admittedly, we occasionally do this, but find it authentic in the same way that Christmas is celebrated with Santa and fun-filled conifers.  Point being, authenticity, like everything else, tends toward relativity.

In our south American sojourn we've had plenty of authentic natural experiences, numerous authentic transportation experiences, but less of the authentic visually observed cultural experience (in part because of the innate paradox of being an outsider traveler trying to be an insider).  As a result, when we are lucky enough for them to arise, we find ourselves grateful for the opportunity and more entranced then normal of the offending locale.

Our first peru destination was Arequipa.  It is a big, beautiful colonial city.  White fascaded buildings adorn the steets.  Fountain laden centers decorate its plazas.  And western grade restaurants line the main steets.  It is a far cry from the general decrepitude that encapsulates Bolivia, which is to say the city had us at cleanliness.

But cleanliness isn't authentic, at least in most SA cities.  No, we also had chance shine its little light on us.  We arrived the week (sic) of the city's independence day.  More importantly though, we choose a good hostel.  As our second night rolled in we were beckoned to the new sister hostel by management.  Promises of free drinks and live music was just lurement enough to draw us from our few beers and the intrigue of a large crowd gathering downtown for the late night fireworks show (apparently not a uniquely American event).

We showed up to a bar full of Peruvians with ten gringos in tow.  We all sat at one table and had a nice 8th grade ethnic dance vibe going on.  But as the night gathered steam (and booze) and all but two other gringos headed off to the discotecas, a new, more comfortable vibe began to take shape.  The 6 Peruvian band members became more animated, the singing more lively and the laughter more contagious.  The remaing gringos were still seated together, but Peruvians spotted the table as well.  Chips were shared.  Looks, and smiles, exchanged.  Even the occasional question and answer requited.  It became a group of people sharing the music of Arequipa through a set of old men who clearly, and dearly, love their town.  Four singers and two guitarist were our conduits that evening as music took us to Arequipa that night, something we won't soon forget.

Notes:
- Arequipa is the 2nd largest town, but has arguably the best central plaza, in Peru.
- Independence day began with a parade and finished with a fireworks show that might rival any in the states; or so we would imagine based on the biggest and brightest burst, which is all we could see from our obstructed view atop the hostel.
- The men singing for everyone collectively had at least 375 years of experience.  The party didn't finish until past midnight and I'm sure some must have required some sort of prescription medication to have lasted that long.
- After every. Single. Song. The band would finish with a cheer, something like: "Arei-Arei-Areiiiiiiii-Quipaaaaaa!". It was a clear case of unbridled cityism.  An enjoyable contagion that night.        
- One style of song, I'm convinced, was an elongated joke.  It was spoken word and rhythmic and each time the man finished everyone burst into a combination of laughter and applause.  It was brilliant to watch, like Eddie Murphy live meets a Sunday sermon.